Tue. Jan 31st, 2023

Valentino was the only luxury brand that opted to unveil their Haute Couture Collection, not from Paris like other brands, but from the Eternal City. Held in a prime location, the Piazza di Spagna- also known as the Spanish Steps. Models descended down the 136 steps and it was a full circle moment for the house.

Drawing clientele, buyers, and top editors, the show was the hot ticket for those in Rome on Friday night. Sitting front row were Naomi Campbell, Florence Pugh, Law Roach, Andrew Garfield, Kate Hudson, and Anne Hathaway- who wore a fascia number with matching platform heels from the most latest ready-to-wear collection. Pierpaolo Piccioli, Creative Director for the Italian house created a collection that represents home, freedom, and promise.

The show was purposed to happen at the Spanish Steps. It was the same area where the house’s first sartoria di Alta Moda was founded and located in 1959 by Mr. Valentino Garavani, and his partner Giancarlo Giammetti.

“The Atelier, the perpetual genesis, the coordinates in which all our journeys converge, a tree with roots as deep as the underground of this city, where the seamstresses and tailors who understand my gestures as they understood those of Mr. Valentino, interweave the plot of each dress with their lives. In Haute Couture there are no paper patterns, no map, no trace except the one left at the bottom of the soul.”

A collection of edgy yet colorful, with men’s pieces interwoven with the women’s looks. The first look, a wine-colored dress in the shape of a rose, yet roses all around set the tone that the collection was going to be unique.

“Nothing more than haute couture is transformed starting from an absolute zero. Capturing and sharing that moment of candid nothingness in which everything is still possible is an exercise that I repeat every time with the same wonder. The craftsmanship of Haute Couture cites the artistic practice but doesn’t need or aim to identify with it: the three-dimensionality of materials, the thickness, the intimate involvement that each dress necessarily entails due to the enormous amount of time its execution requires, this is what these two worlds have in common,” continues Piccioli.

Volume has been a theme during the AW22 Haute Couture season, and the same is no different for Valentino. Capes, taffeta capes to be precise with puffy sleeves were seen in the collection and matched with a purple off the shoulder velvet gown. Over a hundred models showcased looks. A bubblegum pink oversized men’s coat with a black collar brings color and excitement to the collection.

After the show Piccioli walked down the 136 steps with his atelier staff in their smocks to the runway. If you know Piccioli, or know a bit about him, then you know he’s personable and kind, trying to change the narrative in fashion that the industry can be stuffy and mean. This was an extension of his heart to give praise to the ones who spent hours making the collection. Unveiled in an indelible location, created a full circle moment for Valentino and for its creative director who made a collection beauty and color, giving the hope for a better future after the past couple of years.

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