Mon. Nov 28th, 2022

PAD London returns to a live format after two years of online only activities. One of the main attractions of this year’s show is a world-class selection of one-of-a-kind jewels by master jewelers, contemporary artists and designers from around the world. The contemporary design fair will run from October 10 till October 16 in Berkeley Square, in the Mayfair section of London.

The fair will premiere works by emerging and lesser-known jewelry designers, as well as new pieces created especially for the occasion. Pushing the limits of artistry, some of the jewels on display were created using pioneering digital technologies and unconventional materials, while others are the result of timeless crafts and a sustainable approach to creation. Many pieces also demonstrate the power of jewelry and its ability, as any form of art, to question today’s society. These include one-of-a-kind designs by the late American jeweler Terry Castro who put Black jewelry designers in the spotlight and battled stereotypes throughout his career.

Contemporary Jewelry

Valery Demure, founder of the online site Objet d’Emotion and the Marylebone, London gallery of the same name will showcase well-known designers from around the world, including Greek-born pearl designer, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Italian designer Francesca Villa, Parisian jeweler Emmanuelle Zysman, Brazilian-born designer Yael Sonia, lawyer-turned-jeweler Ioanna Souflia, and Ghanaian-Chinese designer Melinda Zeman.

Demure will also present the Indian jeweler Moksh whose creations have never been shown in Europe. Inspired by Mughal jewelry, the jeweler creates well-crafted pieces combing merging technology, engineering and traditional techniques, such as the precise gold filigree found in the jaali work of Jodhpur artistry, the patented micro-pearl weave and the calibrated tapered baguette-cut diamond setting.

Elisabetta Cipriani, whose eponymous London gallery specializes in wearable art, has also been championing new talents for many years. The gallery will present the work of young British goldsmith Joy BC whose politically charged pieces inspired by Ancient Greece, explore the stories of forgotten female heroes. Among them is a ring in 22k recycled yellow gold depicting Hypatia, a female Greek philosopher and mathematician who became a symbol of women’s rights in the 20th century.

Maria Sole Ferragamo, founder of SO-LE STUDIO creates jewels that are crafted from discarded materials, such as leather offcuts and brass shavings. Ferragamo is collaborating with Cipriani for PAD by creating four limited edition pieces in upcycled brass, including Nautilus, a pair of earrings in palladium plated brass and blue varnish.

Other independent contemporary jewelers in the fair include Swiss-born jewelry designer Cora Sheibani and artist-jeweler Eliane Fattal.

Wearable Contemporary Art

Cipriani will also unveil a new project at the fair: Salvia, her second collaboration with the Italian artist Giuseppe Penone. Together they created an 18k gold ring depicted as a sage leaf with a musical note. The design is limited to 10 pieces. Cipriani’s other PAD London collaborations are with Greek sculptor Sophia Vari and Italian artist Giorgio Vigna.

The sudden death in July of the prolific and popular contemporary jewelry artist, Terry Castro, known simply as Castro, shocked the jewelry world. He was loved by the jewelry community for his groundbreaking creations as a Black artist and for outgoing personality. Eight of his largest one-of-a-kind designs will be unveiled at PAD by Carpenter Workshop Jewellery. Mixing animal and human forms and invoking African and medieval influences, theses miniature sculptures decorated with fancy-colored diamonds, gemstones and precious metals required hundreds of hours of craftmanship. Among them is The Falcon Crest pendant, crafted in antique porcelain and decorated with emeralds and diamonds (top photo).

Carpenter Workshop Jewellery will also present jewelry creations by several other important contemporary artists including Cindy Sherman, Rashid Johnson and Robert Longo. These collaborations are presented in partnership with the U.S. jewelry brand LizWorks.

High Jewelry

High jewelry features prominently at the fair. Among those exhibiting is well-known London jeweler, David Morris, who will present several new pieces created to mark his 60th anniversary. Among them is a pair of rare 60-carat natural pearl drop earrings, crafted with vibrant pink diamonds and briolette white diamonds and an opal and lapis Lazuli necklace featuring a 43.04-carat black opal.

Indian jeweler Neha Dani, who only creates 15 to 20 pieces a year, will present her most recent jeweled sculptures intricately studded with up to 3,000 precious gemstones. These one-of-a-kind creations in custom-colored gold and titanium are inspired by the jeweler’s Indian heritage, trips around the world, as well as natural and organic shapes (petals, waves, galaxies, feathers). Among the pieces on display is the Aialik cuff, which features custom-cut blue moonstones set in 18k gold and diamonds.

British jeweler Glenn Spiro returns to pad with a selection of his creations, many of which are new, including a 47.44-carat stripped multi-colored agate and a ring featuring a 5.01-carat marquise-shaped D color and internally flawless diamond, surrounded by black ebony wood.

Swiss high jewelry house, Boghossian, will unveil its unique creations in an exhibition space inspired by the historic Silk Road and celebrating the 154-year history of the sixth-generation jewelry house. Testament to the brand’s design methods, the offering showcases rare gemstones carved into intricate forms and hovering diamonds in invisible settings. Highlights include a pair of conch pearl and fancy intense yellow diamond earrings, suspending two drop-shaped conch pearls weighing 74.24 carats and 70.63 carats and a necklace of pastel colors, set with baguette-shaped semi-precious gems of impressive sizes, including aquamarine, pink and green tourmaline.

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