A favorite with artistic jewelry enthusiasts, Copenhagen-based designer Sophie Bille Brahe is known for her precious pieces that are bold and soft, delicate and considered. There’s also a celestial feel to her line, and this influence comes from her ancestor, the astronomer Tycho Brahe who discovered the constellation Cassiopeia, and so her collection is where diamonds collide with pearls.
Brahe tells us more about her newly launched collection, ‘The Bow’, and yes, it’s all about the delicacy of the bow, and there’s plenty of opulence with it.
Bows / The perfect moment: For the AW22 collection, I wanted to do ‘bows’ – which is a tradition in jewelry that can feel a bit twee or safe. I’ve always found something tender and pure about bows. It’s about hands and fingers – the intimacy and caress of touch. The collection started with me adding bows to our Peggy necklace, trying to find a way to do it that I’d want to wear, that felt right, not safe. I wanted to add a little danger to the collection – like pulling the string of a bow, knowing the whole thing is about to come undone. A moment of anticipation, that feeling as you zip your dress, take a deep breath and walk into the dark.
Grand Peggy: The Grand Peggy is a new interpretation in the Peggy collection of pearls, it’s a longer version of the classic Peggy necklace. For me, the feel is 21st-century rococo – opulence with a fresh modern twist. I like to wear it with a classic white t-shirt, it’s a timeless piece, offering various styling options.
Flowers: Flowers are a continuous source of inspiration to me. As a child, my father’s garden was an utmost conversation around the table, we could spend hours looking at the roses in bloom or discussing whether we should plant new species of peony. My endearment for flowers has never faded away, they fill my universe. I use flowers to express how I am feeling. Flowers are a classic and timeless motif in jewellery, yet I try to give it a modern twist like with the Fleur de Tennis or Ocean de Fleurs. These pieces are very pure and delicate with a row of flowers set with diamonds graduating in size around the neck.
Nuage: I like working with the classic understanding of jewellery and twisting it so I would wear it myself. I believe this is really the starting point for all my designs. The Nuage de Tennis necklace is a great example of this, as it is packed with diamonds and yet it preserves a serene simplicity.
Diamonds: Diamonds are the reason why I chose this profession. Diamonds are mesmerizing to me. If you take a diamond and stare at its glow for too long, you get hypnotized. I love that it comes from the earth, each one is unique. There is something truly magical about working with diamonds, taking them from the ground and shaping them into an architectural and bright treasure. I think my fascination for the night sky explains a lot of why I like working with diamonds so much. Pearls represent the moon to me, and diamonds are the stars. There is something deeply inspiring and mysterious about the universe above us and working with diamonds is my way to get my head around it.
See more on sophiebillebrahe.com.