Mon. Mar 20th, 2023

Highlighter yellow, or rather neon yellow was the first color that opened the Georges Chakra spring-summer 2023 Couture show in Paris yesterday. A collection with a lot of originality, there’s bound to be tried re-creations of the designers’ aesthetic because it’s that good.

Held at Palais du Tokyo, in the goings on of the City of Lights, the room was full of eager onlookers like influencer Olivia Palermo, to see what Chakra was going to create. The Maison hasn’t held a show since before the pandemic so everyone wanted to see what the Maison was going to produce.

One of the most fascinating looks in the collection is the floor length linen coat and wide leg pants embroidered with silver and gold raffia thread, accessorized with a cascade pearl. It’s a real grown up look perfect for the office, meetings, and smart casual events.

Chakra chose to create a collection with shocks of color from coral, flame rose, emerald, lime, mint, chartreuse, rose pale, vanilla, ice blue, and white. And these colors are contrasted with crystals, sequins, and stones. The gowns are absolutely divine. Their volume, their shape, and their styles are enchanting.

Pleats play a main role but not just any pleats: micro-pleating, Fortuny pleats, and flat pleats offer contrasting structures to looks. The bias pleated white mini dress with a sheer sequined side panel wrapped in a floor length boa of tulle flowers and pleated tulle is enchanting.

The designer sculpted the female form molding bustiers, like the bustier gown in coral silk chiffon with an asymmetrical and finely pleated jeweled bodice and an ostrich feather one-shoulder boa gown (16). And his play with collars show a strength to the female essence, like the duchesse satin nipped waist jacket in chartreuse with a shawl collar lined in pale pink and a long double jeweled and feathered train, paired with a matching pant.

The bride wore color and not white. The only Lebanese designer to do this, the bride wore a striped blue and rose pastel-printed silk Mikado that was hand painted with bright metallic silver. With large princess cut skirting of flamboyant volume made from soft gazar and tulle that’s pleated and shaped, “into wave-like fans forming a cascade on the train.”

In addition, the cascading oversized pearls that cover the torso, Chakra and his team created shoulder length drop earrings in tiered facetted multi-colored stones. Diving into house archives the satin mules in champagne and silver with delicate neon heels were revamped to accompany the collection.

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