Held in the middle of Haute Couture Week under the sunlight ceiling of the Carreau du Temple was Elie Saab’s Couture Collection. Amongst those most notable in the audience were renowned stylist Law Roach, and fashion journalist and critic Suzy Menkes.
The Beginning of Twilight it’s called, representing the moment when the sun begins to lie down after a long day. The quiet begins to take over and fades into the hushes of midnight, and Saab captured these colors in the collection. From nude shades, to black, silvers, and hints of light blues and pinks makes up the women’s looks. Saab is known for his ravishing women’s looks adorned with sequins, beading, and pearls that ooze with sparkle. But if we can put a pin in the women’s looks and talk about the men’s looks, and how Saab captured the essence of the male form in grand robe-esqe coats that would be great.
So far, on the Lebanese couture runway we’ve seen a few men’s looks but sitting at Saab’s show, one after the other, and another of masculine tailored-made men’s looks made people in the room take a second look. What is Saab doing? Well, he’s certainly making a statement and getting us to see what Pierpaolo Piccioli has been thinking all along: men can wear high couture too.
There was definitely a multi-culti vibe with the looks. Likened to a bisht, the traditional long coat that men in the Arabian Gulf wear, Saab managed to capture this the aesthetic essence of some of the looks. Or, the muted wine-colored ensemble whose color is barely see-able has kimono robe influences. And other coat looks mirror western men’s suit style.
Black pants are paired with intricate embroidery that flow all the way down or all over the robe in gold threading. Some looks for the men are matched with a mesh embroidered t-shirt that gives layer to the black blazer that sits on top, and then the long coat. A more cape-like covering offers a 17th century touch. And let’s not forget the feathered look, one of the first looks that will make any man look regal. The men’s looks give men who may be afraid to wear a bisht or Asian style robe the confidence to know it’s possible.
And to the women, feathers were the most noticeable detail aside from the crystals and sequins. Saab was able to capture the essence of full-length feathers that cascade down gowns. Dramatic looks of fitted gowns with an adorning back piece that circumferences the head, and long train brings boldness to the woman that wears it, as well as to the collection. And off the shoulder pink pieces, like the legged and not legged piece bring glamor to the feminine silhouette. Not leaving the women out of robe glory, Saab’s pink flowing gown with matching outwear with four divided sides make for a shimmery and quite feminine look.
All the colors in the collection can be found during twilight in the sky. “Crepuscular rays paint the clouds in sweeping gradations of vibrant red, pink, blue and grey intensities. Shimmering beads swirl together through nude tulle, as large silver sequins glow like moonbeams illuminating fields of gazar,” states the house in notes.
One of his most memorable collections to gaze it, it’s clear that Saab has men couture looks in his mind, so there’s no telling what he’s going to do for men in coming seasons.